I wake confused in a dark, strong smelling place and it takes some time for my eyes to get used to the fire smoke. I'm in northern Laikipia and staying with a small village of Samburu who rely mainly on their goats for survival. Last night they strangled, bled and then cooked a goat in our honour - I'm with a local landowner. We then get to drink a little blood and eat some of the ugliest bits of the unfortunate goat... Feeling a little odd this morning after sleeping in the "warriors" (men only) hut - there were 6 of us crammed into one corner - and my back is unhappy with the result... The sun has only just broken the horizon and is yet to warm my bones - a mug of steaming chai is shyly offered to me by my host's eldest daughter. I speak a little Swahili but no Samburu and so I motion with my camera as if I to take her picture and she smiles broadly which I take as a "yes". There is something so self-assured, truthful and direct in her eyes and smile - confident in her own environment and unknowing of the outside world beyond.